How US Hip Hop and Politics are paving the way for 21st Century Men's fashion

You could be forgiven for overlooking the attire of Barack Obama, his gleaming, charismatic smile mesmerises, and his commanding rhetoric, though at this stage full of hypothetical projections, exhilarates. Obama has the makings of a world leader, in attitude and undeniably, apparel.

Clothes We Can Believe In

I can think of few very delightful instances of blue suits; be it navy, royal or sky - which is a shame as they are currently a colour du jour. Perhaps a powder shade in St Elmo's Fire, Flashdance or for an eighties themed, summer party, sleeves rolled up. Until I espied some recent pictures of Obama sporting a crisp deep hue, I had not really considered quite how masculine and powerful it can look. Before I or anyone else implodes with the distinctly anti-feminist air surrounding that statement- it's clearly a lucrative look for a presidential candidate- male or female. I applaud Hillary for not always resorting to tweed knee skirts and braving the 'pantsuit'.

The balance is struck with Obama by the fact that he neither wears his clothes completely, nor lets them wear him. Rather a fluid equilibrium exists in which one perfectly compliments the other. It makes sense that Donatella Versace dedicated her Spring '09 show to Obama, declaring him "a relaxed man who doesn't need to flex muscles to show he has power."

Even in a snappy white shirt with sleeves rolled on a field visit, it is hard to look at a photo of Gordon Brown in a suit (what else) without feeling the underlying murmur, as if from a pesky fashion police tinkerbell on your shoulder, that Gord would much rather be in a nice comfy jumper and some slacks. David Cameron fairs slightly better, but the only real candidate for the mighty throne of stylish British power wielder would be Boris Johnson, and frankly that's got more to do with having the slightly bonkers hairstyle (and thus suggestive of a streak of potential panache), than real hard evidence.

What Obama shares with other men folk who grace those lists compiled by the FT, Forbes, People etc of those rich, famous and influential - generally reminding us of our own, more moderate achievements- is that within the sphere he operates, he is able to create and define a certain sense of elevated style.

Liking Those American Boys

Obama does for American Politicians, stylistically, what Kanye, Pharrell and Andre 3000 have done on a similarly global scale to the image of American pop, hip hop and R n B, provided a compelling prototype which others can encapsulate and replicate.

Of course, fashion's zeitgeist inevitably does not stem purely from icons of popular culture; it is much more complex than that. However, how many imitations of Kanye's 'Stronger' Alain Milkli glasses can be found gracing our shops and street markets?
I have seen enough brave souls sporting these to know that they have made an 'impact'.

Glasses aside, Kanye is savvy enough to be able to reinvent himself, as suave besuited cad on the cover of America, silver bomber sporting nu-rave rapper, sometimes bling encrusted, oft in fluro colours contrasting subtler basics, and even more tellingly, on the front row at shows from Dior, Lanvin and Louis Vuitton this year. A dazzling orange sweater tied around his waist on France's 'Fete de la Mustique', Kanye is able not only to start trends but to evaluate those created by others.

The Sweet Success of a N.E.R.D

Pharrell Williams, if not already cool enough by dint of having dated the inimitable Jade Jagger, in 2005 began collaborating with Japanese clothing label Nigo who are responsible for Bathing Ape, to produce not one but two lines; Billionaires Boys Club and Ice-Cream.

www.bbciceream.com showcases the two menswear ranges (although don't despair if the cut feels tight as apparently their 'smaller sizes were cut with our female customers in mind'). Pharell models some of the range in the online look book, which styles the Season 7 lines as a collegiate geek meets urban chic fusion. If anyone can don a camouflage blazer, pastel pink shirt and black bow tie, and not induce a reaction which involves vomit, it is Williams. Like West, he is able to explore a nerdier side of hip hop, without losing credibility. Think more 80's Public Enemy than over glitzed P Diddy.

Not Afraid of Being an Outkast

Andre "3000" Benjamin presents yet another paradigm for men to consider. Part 1930's speakeasy patron, part eccentric golf aficionado and part hip hop don, Benjamin certainly doesn't fear a clashing print, and breathes a refreshingly flamboyant air into the oft stuffy room of big, baggy and bling in which urban men's fashion can so easily reside. It is no surprise that 'Hey Ya' was the favoured song to end the night at London's sadly deceased hipster club night 'Trash'. Benjamin is inevitably a stylistic forefather of the current East London set.

American Politics and Hip Hop are neither mutually exclusive nor inextricably linked. It must be considered though, that in comparison with their British counterparts, two of the most favoured darlings of the media, American politicians and rap stars are able to be both trailblazers for and mirrors to the world of men's fashion in a way which is admirably self-possessed, poised and ultimately influential- whether you're talking clothes, record sales or votes for presidency.

Written by Jenny Hayward